This is, to me, the most f period for historical clothing. The transition from rectangular construction to fitted, fairly modern, techniques was in its infancy, very exciting times for a costumer. To truly understand the clothing of this period, its patterns and design it is recommended that one have an understanding of rectangular construction and how bias works. This is from personal experience. I took a two year sabbatical away from 14th centuary clothing century clothing to learn in depth about rectangular construction and every minute was worth it. I return to my first clothing love with a renewed excitement to try out some of my new ideas. There is no way to cover the finer details of this period in a four hour class. This is an overview of the basic garments and accessories with a look at patterns and construction techniques. haine dama - Buy sports shoes here. Buy your favorite sport shoes online.
My favorite block of time in the 14th century is, bar none, the time of the Luttrell Psalter, c.1338 - 1344. No one knows exactly what year this work was done (it was not completed) but it is agreed that it took several years to do so and that it was most likely within the years 1338-1344. This is the time period I will concentrate on. This is also the country I will concentrate on. England with a dash of French thrown in for fun and good measure.
STOCKINGS AND GARTERS
Stockings for women and men were sewn from woven fabrics. While several techniques existed such as naalbinding and knitting, the socks found so far in graves and refuge dumps for this time period and location were constructed from woven fabric, wool, linen or silk. The leg of the stocking was most often cut on the bias to give the most stretch across the breadth of the calf. There are extant examples of straight grain cut too. There are several pattern types for stockings but I prefer the socks that have no seam on the bottom of the foot. In winter for extra warmth, one could wear two pairs of stockings. One of the main things to remember when making stockings out of woven fabric, assuming you can spare the extra fabric, is to cut the leg and top of the foot on the bias. When you cut on the bias the fabric stretches and flexes to the movement and shape of your leg. Bias is the cross grain of fabric and is at a 45 degree angle from the warp or the weft of the weave. Cut a square of fabric, any woven fabric, along the warp and weft threads and, grasping opposite sides, pull. There is a resistance and very little stretch. Now take opposite corners of the square in your hands and pull. The fabric stretches and puckers across the center. Pretty cool. Wool tends to be stretchier than linen and linen stretchier than silk. Stockings typically came up to or just over the knee and were tied securely with a garter in the little dip below the knee. It is much more comfortable to have the garter between the knee and the top of the calf and it also rests more securely at this narrow portion of the leg without the need for subsequent adjustments. Garters could be as simple as a strip of wool tied in a knot. There is evidence for many other types of garters. Woven strips of wool with integral fringe, card woven bands either tied or buckled on, and leather strips with buckles are all appropriate for garters. The most important part is that they hold up the stocking without cutting off circulation.
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